Oooh, that’s a good price for stocks!

athens-2476281_1280What’s a good price to buy stocks?  By itself this is an impossible question to answer but it is useful to understand what can cause prices to go up and down when considering where to put your money.

Picture yourself at flea market. At each booth someone is trying to sell you something. There’s the Certificate of Deposit booth, a guy selling government bonds, a guy selling corporate bonds, a woman selling real estate, and a woman selling stocks. You’re trying to decide what to buy, and they’re all competing for your business. Let’s say at today’s interest rates CDs are offering 2%, guaranteed. The government bond guy is offering 3%, with low risk of default, corporate bond lady is offering 4% at a bit more default risk, real estate people can show rents on her properties that give a return on investment of 5% and the stock woman is offering stocks that have average earnings of 8 cents for every dollar invested (In other words, earnings vs price of 0.08.  You will usually see company valuations given as the inverse of this, price over earnings–PE ratio.  With earnings of 0.08 per dollar, this would be a PE ratio of 12.5, and only one way of valuing stocks, but a useful on for this exercise). Today you decide to buy the stocks because even though they are the most risky—the corporate earnings vary a lot and certainly no guarantee—you feel the risk is worth the return compared to everything else. This is the key. You aren’t judging the price of the stocks all by themselves, you’re judging them in comparison to all other possible investments. Let’s say when you go back, the fed has raised interest rates, driving up yields on CDs and other bonds to double what they were before. Let’s also pretend the companies that you have invested in have done exactly as expected. Now, the stock prices have plummeted. Why? The companies are doing fine! At least in part, it’s because of the competing options available to investors. If I can now get a corporate bond at an 8% yield, I’m probably going to need the stock to yield more. It’s now expensive by comparison. If the earnings are the same, the only way to get the yield higher (e.g. PE lower) is the price has to drop:  the same earnings for a lower price. This is a simplified example and bond prices moving higher also hurts earnings themselves by making borrowing costs higher, but the important thing to remember is always evaluate the return and risk of an investment to every other alternative.  There isn’t a magic PE ratio for “cheap” vs “expensive”, it’s always relative to the times.

Asset Allocation

chicken-1686641_640Where you put your money to attempt to maximize your returns while protecting your money is the subject of countless studies and makes up the primary job of many financial professionals.  My suggestion for asset allocation is far simpler than what many of these professionals would recommend, and due to ultra low fees, the returns are likely better.

The first questions that need to be answered for asset allocation is a) What is the money for? and b) How long until you need it?  For definitive expenses (like your emergency fund or saving for a major purchase in the next year or two), the money should be in something safe, like a CD or a money market fund.  For something like retirement or other longer-term investing, it’s more interesting.  Here is a starting example:

Age 25, Planned Retirement Age 65:  Years to Goal: 40 years

For anything 25+ years to the goal, my recommendation is a 90%/10% stock/bond ratio.  This isn’t magic, but certainly with a long time horizon, history has shown the vast majority of your money should be in stocks.  I prefer a diversified group of index funds of all sizes, both domestic and international.  You could go a long way to achieving this with just two funds: 60% in Vanguard Total Stock Market Fund (VTSMX) and 30% in Vanguard Total International Fund (VGTSX), The other 10% of the money can go into bond funds, such as Vanguard Total Bond Fund (VBMFX) and Vanguard Total International Bond Fund (VTIBX).  I’m a big fan of Vanguard for their low fees, but if your 401k does not offer these funds hopefully you can find some similar funds that have very low fees—less than 0.2% should be standard for an index fund.  For God sakes hopefully the funds they offer have no loads (sales commission). Aside—this is completely wasted money.  “Sales Loads” are money paid to the salesperson for “selling” you the fund.  They are so worthless you likely didn’t even know they sold you anything.  This is different from the higher fees that actively managed funds (vs index funds) charge, that money is actually for the person picking stocks for you, but isn’t worth it either. 

The suggested allocation looks something like this

  • 60% Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund
  • 30% Vanguard Total International Index Fund
  • 8% Vanguard Total Bond Market Index Fund
  • 2% Vanguard Total International Bond Market Index Fund

The above can be substituted for other equivalent index funds, you are looking for funds with fees of <0.2%.  This gives you a broadly diversified portfolio in just four funds.

Once you get within 25 years or so from your retirement age, you want your portfolio to start to get more conservative, meaning a shift from stocks to bonds, such that at retirement you have something close to 50%/50% split of stock and bonds.  I’ll have a future post on the logic of this allocation in retirement.  This can be achieved by shifting your allocation by 1.5% from stocks to bonds with each year. For the ratio of the above funds at years until retirement, for example,

  • 25 years to go (60%/30%/8%/2%)
  • 15 years to go (50%/25%/20%/5%)
  • 5 years to go (40%/20%/32%/8%)
  • At retirement (35%/18%/38%/9%)

Target retirement funds attempt to do this adjustment for you and there are some of these that invest in low-cost index funds, but I usually like to have this control myself.

That’s it, not complicated.

Retirement: When will I get there?

flag-36198_640My previous post discussed determining needs for retirement life, and for our example calculated we’d need $2.1M.  Ouch.  But here’s the thing, remember that’s with dollars way into the future (inflation adjusted), and if you have some discipline you can get there.  Here’s our approach.   For our financial  projections, we’ll look at each group of assets as we did with with our retirement needs, and try to figure out how they will grow with time.

 

  1. Home.  Your home is one of your larger assets, and should grow in price like other assets and as you pay down your mortgage.  We should be ale to get a reasonable current value of our home using sites such as zillow.  Though not exact, it’s reasonable to assume an increase in value of 2.5% per year.  Each year we also subtract off the principal portion of our mortgage, available from your amortization schedule (Microsoft Excel has a template for this if you need it).  The equity in your home equates to

Home equity = (Current home value) x 1.025years  -Principal Owed

For example, a person retiring in 35 years with a $300K home today, starting with a $240K mortgage at 4%, the home equity looks like this

2. Retirement savings.  Though historical data for stocks is higher, I like to assume an average combined return of 6%, assuming you’ll be allocating assets to a mix of stocks and bonds.  Hopefully your return will be higher, but this is reasonably conservative assumption.  You’ll probably be able to increase the amount you invest each year, but we’ll assume this is fixed.  The easiest way to calculate this is using the Excel formula for future value,

FV = (Current Value, interest rate, years, yearly deposit)

Also, remember money in a 401k or IRA is not available until age 59.5.  So, for example, a 30 year old saving $7200 per year with a current account of $50K:

3. Regular Savings.  Similar to the above savings, however now we don’t have the benefit of tax deferred savings like the 401k, and also part of this savings is in your emergency fund, which will necessarily have a lower return.  I think a reasonable assumed return on investment is 4%, again hopefully you’ll do better.  For example, a 30 year old saving $2000 per year with a current account of $10K:

4. College Savings. Assuming you have kids (congrats!) college savings is another bucket for accumulation of assets.  Assuming you are using a 529 plan, these earnings are tax free, but also should get more conservative (=lower rate of return) as your child gets closer to college age.  Here I recommend assuming a rate of return of 5%.  For example, let’s assume you’re putting away $100 per month for your child.  This probably won’t be enough to cover the whole bill, but will take out a good chunk:

Finally, we sum up all all the curves and compare it to your needs from our earlier post.  For our example:

Whoa.  Made it!  We didn’t have to assume ridiculous returns and we didn’t have to save $50k a year!  Hopefully, this shows you this is achievable.  We made some pretty conservative assumptions, but we show making it to your comfortable retirement while not eating Ramen Noodles and sacrificing Netflix during your working years.  Notice what it takes is discipline to save every month, and starting early.

One other big caveat.  All my calculations and assumptions above show nice smooth curves as your assets grow.  This is far from reality, but a reasonable estimate for projections.  No one can tell you if you will definitely make your financial goal.  In a future post, we’ll get into how this is really just a best guess, and calculate the probabilities of getting there.

When Do I Have Enough?

money-2724235_640“Enough” is a tough concept to answer for each person, but extremely important to define for an person’s financial goals.  Remember the role of money is only to give you a happy, satisfying life.  For some people “enough” means a yacht with two helicopter pads (because with just one they’d be unhappy), though I’d suggest they may have lost their perspective on what it takes to make them happy.  This concept is so critical that John Bogle, the founder of Vanguard and the father of index investing, used it as the name of his book.

There is a classic bit of financial wisdom, that totally misses this point.  It states you figure out your needed retirement income as a percentage of your current income, typically about 75%.  This is overly simplified, foolish, and sends the wrong message.  Think if you get a big raise late in your career, would you think, “Oh no, my retirement account is suddenly way underfunded!”  Of course not.  Further, your expenses in retirement are completely different from those pre-retirement.  Instead, you want to calculate what you need for enough.  This is obviously different for each person, but I suggest determining your happiness needs in three categories.

1. Lifetime income.  Hopefully you’ve gone through the budgeting exercise for your current expenses.  For your retirement income needs, you should go through this again, except for retirement life.  Your categories will undoubtedly change quite a bit.  If you’re retiring before Medicare age (65), or if you think the Government will screw this up before you get there, your medical insurance will be a significant expense.  This is going up considerably every year, I’d budget at least $2000 per month for medical insurance and expenses.  Also, perhaps you’re looking to travel more, golf more, eat out more, whatever, but you should have less expenses for that house mortgage (paid off!) and for kids.  Again, you’re trying to define “enough” for you.  Lets assume your monthly budget adds up to $5000 in today’s dollars.  If you’re 30 and retiring at 65, with a 2.5% rate of inflation, this is

$5000 x 1.02535 = ~$12,000 per month

Once you’ve built this retirement monthly budget subtract your expected social security payment (also adjusted for inflation and if you are retiring after social security age AND you think it will actually still exist when you retire!) as well as any expected retirement pensions you might have.  Multiply that number by 12 to get your yearly income need, it will look something like this:

12 x (Monthly budget -Social Security-Pensions) =Income need

e.g.  12 x ($12,000-$6000-$2000)= $48,000

Multiply this number by 25 and that is the rough amount you need to save to support the budget you developed, in this case $1,200,000, or roughly a little more than a million bucks.  Multiplying by 25 follows the “4%” rule meaning you should be able to invest your money reasonably conservatively and withdraw 4% per year.  This isn’t magic, and has a ton of assumptions, but is a decent best guess.

2. Home.  I’m a believer that your retirement home should be mortgage free.  If you are carrying a mortgage, that needs to go into the budget above, but let’s assume you are not continuing to carry debt in retirement.  If you’re a homeowner now, generally your retirement home will be no more expensive, and possibly much less if you downsize.  What I suggest is start dreaming about where you want to live, and what kind of house will make you happy.  Use sites like Zillow to see what that house costs.  Once again, adjust for inflation as we did for the budget above, and there is your number.  If you really, really want another big purchase (like that second helicopter) include this cost also.  But please, try not to believe you need a helicopter.  Or two.

3. College.  If you have kids not yet in college, and you believe it is your obligation to pay for it, this is the third big expense.  I’ll have a separate post on saving for college, but in summary a good place to start is the current in-state tuition, room, and board where you live and multiply this by 1.5 for a teenager, 2.0 for a grade-schooler, and 3.0 for a baby.  College inflation is pretty ridiculous.  Thank your parents if they paid your way.  Then multiply this by 4, for 4 years of college, and encourage your young one to finish in 4 years.  Again, this could change a bunch if he/she really wants to go to that expensive private school, or grows into a world class volleyball player, but again, it’s a good guess. For example, where I live in Virginia, current tuition, room and board at UVa is $28,000. For a grade schooler, I’d plan on

$28,000 x 2.0 x 4.0 = $224,000

So now, just add them all up.  For example, let’s say you figured out the $1.2 Million you need to generate the income you want, and figure you would like a $300k house, adjusted for inflation is ~$700k, and figure it will take a little over $200k to send your kid to college.  The total then is ~$2.1 Million.  This is your targeted net worth.  That’s the minimum you will need, assuming all the assumptions above, and is a reasonable target for what you’ve determined as “enough”.  Scary?  It doesn’t have to be, and I’ll show you how to get there.  If that’s too big a goal, you can make some adjustments to your future lifestyle, or decide to work a little in retirement or junior’s college choice.  Also, if your goal is to retire prior to social security age, I’ll have a separate post on retiring early and how to define this need.  The point is to have a definitive goal to shoot for that has some relationship back to what you feel you need.

Happy Holidays! Buy Me!

gift-2096990_640I have to vent a little here on the holiday ads.  It’s relentless, but the worst of them has to be the car commercials.  The worst.  The ad goes like this

Serene winter scene.  Beautiful husband/wife  comes running out to the driveway with a look of joy and complete love for his/her beautiful husband/wife and exclaims “Oh my God!  You Bought Me a Car!” and all is right in the world with their new car (or two!)  They even put a bow on it so everybody can see it’s a new car for Christmas!  We’re the best people in the world!

Here’s the reality

“Oh my God, You Bought Me a Car!” with a look of terror, anger, and what-the-hell-is-the-matter-with-you.  “You know we share expenses right?  What happened to our previous (perfectly fine) car?  What did this cost us and our children?  You financed it?  Great!  So we get to pay interest as well on this thing we didn’t need and can’t afford?  Did you even think this over?  No, because you don’t think, ever.  I should have listened to my father and never married you.  Loser.”

OK, maybe that’s a bit harsh, but for the love of all that is holy, don’t fall for this ridiculous ploy.  Reasons to purchase a new automobile are primarily

  1. Your current car has become unsafe
  2. Your current car has become unreliable
  3. Your current car requires repairs/maintenance that are very high compared to the value of the car

Cars are terrible investments.  They lose value with time.  Further a financed car is a double-whammy, you are paying interest on that thing that is losing value with time.  They are necessary in our lives in general, and can bring joy for some, but are huge cost sinks.  You buy a car when you need it, not as some gesture of romance or whatever.

And news flash, saddling your spouse with a huge financial obligation is not romantic!  As a general rule, never make a major purchase without your spouse’s consent!  Maybe you like fighting?  If you share finances (and married people usually do) you are spending some of your spouse’s money!  It’s not a gift, it’s not even a kind gesture.

Advertising in general likes to try to convince us that it takes buying their product to achieve happiness.  I mean look at these happy, beautiful people!  You could be happy and beautiful too, in a new Chevy!  It’s like they expect us to forget they’re paid actors, reading scripted lines, and all of what they presented is make believe.  Don’t fall for it, you’ll be much happier in the long run.